❓ Frequently Asked Questions
Answers to the most common questions about remapping, tuning and our process. Still unsure? Contact us and we’ll help.
Yes — when it’s done within the limits of your hardware and the car is healthy.
We log boost, fuelling and temps, and calibrate safely so drivability and reliability come first.
Often, yes. Efficient torque delivery can improve MPG under normal driving.
If you use the extra power often, expect economy to drop — that’s driver-dependent.
Yes, we offer dyno tuning — and we also carry out extensive road logging to validate results.
Even without the dyno, bigger builds are logged, adjusted and tuned correctly under real-world load.
Book a session here: Book Now.
It depends on your engine and hardware. Use our checker to see estimates and supported models:
👉 Vehicle Power Gain Lookup.
In most cases, switchable maps are only available on EDC15 ECUs for 1.4 TDI and 1.9 TDI PD engines.
The easiest way to check is using our lookup tool — it shows estimated gains and also confirms whether switchable maps are supported for your exact vehicle/engine:
👉 Vehicle Power Gain Lookup.
If you’re still unsure, send us your reg or ECU part number and we’ll confirm.
If you’re still unsure, send us your reg or ECU part number and we’ll confirm.
Yes — we can remap automatic and DSG cars.
The exact gains and options depend on the engine/ECU, so the quickest way to check is our lookup tool:
👉 Vehicle Power Gain Lookup.
If you want to be 100% sure before booking, send us your reg and we’ll confirm what’s supported.
If you want to be 100% sure before booking, send us your reg and we’ll confirm what’s supported.
We generally advise fixing any fault codes or issues first.
Problems like boost leaks, sensor faults, limp mode, MAF/N75 issues or under/overboost can stop accurate logging — and accurate logs are key to a safe, smooth map.
In some cases we can still proceed at your request, but this may be taken on at your own risk and we’d recommend getting it sorted as soon as possible to avoid further problems.
If you’re unsure, send us your fault codes / symptoms and we’ll advise the best route.
In some cases we can still proceed at your request, but this may be taken on at your own risk and we’d recommend getting it sorted as soon as possible to avoid further problems.
If you’re unsure, send us your fault codes / symptoms and we’ll advise the best route.
Yes. We can read your current file, assess what’s been done, and then write a safe tune suited to your hardware and goals.
If the car has issues (smoke, limp mode, boost control problems etc), we recommend resolving that first so logging and calibration is accurate.
If the car has issues (smoke, limp mode, boost control problems etc), we recommend resolving that first so logging and calibration is accurate.
Yes — we offer a custom file service for customers and trade accounts.
If you’re unsure what you need, contact us with your vehicle, ECU type and mod list and we’ll guide you.
A healthy car with a well balanced calibration should remain clean under normal driving.
Smoke levels depend on engine health, injector condition, turbo condition, airflow/exhaust setup, and how the car is driven.
If your goal is a clean daily, tell us and we’ll calibrate accordingly. If your car is already smoking before tuning, we recommend fixing the cause first.
If your goal is a clean daily, tell us and we’ll calibrate accordingly. If your car is already smoking before tuning, we recommend fixing the cause first.
For 6-speed PD130/PD150 gearboxes, a healthy stock clutch is typically fine up to ~250 bhp.
On the PD100 5-speed, an upgrade is usually needed once you go beyond Stage 1.
For higher targets (250+), we recommend a 6-paddle clutch mated with the stock Sachs dual mass flywheel
for strong bite and street manners.
That depends on your target. As a quick guide:
- ~200 bhp: PD150 turbo (GT1749VB) can achieve ~200 on PD130; PD150 is already there with a safe map.
- 220–235 bhp: GT1752/GT1756, FMIC, correct MAP sensor (see our guide).
- 235–250 bhp: GT1856, ASZ/ARL 550cc injectors minimum, FMIC, exhaust, 4 bar MAP.
- 250–280+ bhp: GT1856 is the last true bolt-on; beyond that you’re into GTB/GTD turbos, Firad 80%+ nozzles and a 272 camshaft at 280+ bhp.
As a rule:
- Up to ~220 bhp: 3 bar is fine (PD130/PD150 have 3 bar stock).
- GT1752: can run on 3 bar.
- GT1756 or larger, or any goal above ~220 bhp: 4 bar required.
Fresh oil & filters, no boost/vacuum leaks, healthy MAF/N75, no clutch slip, no fault codes.
We can run diagnostics and road logs before mapping to catch issues early.
Yes — we always back up your original ECU file. If you sell the car or need diagnostics, we can restore the stock map.
A typical Stage 1 appointment is usually around 30–45 minutes.
Bigger customer builds that require extra logging and adjustments will take longer.
The booking options show rough time estimates so you’ve got a clear idea before you choose a slot.
Book here: Book Now.
For the quickest and most accurate advice, send:
- Vehicle + engine (or reg)
- ECU type if known (EDC15 / EDC16 / EDC17)
- Mod list (turbo, injectors, MAP sensor, FMIC, exhaust, clutch)
- Any fault codes or symptoms
- Your goal (clean daily / power / switchable / smoke etc)
Didn’t see your question? Get in touch — we’ll help you plan the safest, most effective route for your build.